The 3 Most Important Takeaways from Wine Paris
A new global wine fair is emerging in a location that is sure to draw attention, but what does this new grand fair in La Ville Lumière truly show us?
—Peter Baedeker, February 25, 2025
I have been to ProWein eight times over the last decade, in fact I have come to love it as the most productive and focused industry trade show in the world. So, when it seemed that everyone in the international fine wine business was saying that Wine Paris was encroaching on ProWein’s popularity and could potentially dethrone der König of wine festivals with its promise of a more romantic city setting, more affordable accommodations, and an equally global focus, I had to see for myself. My experience revealed three key takeaways:
1. The Urgent Need for Sophisticated Marketing in the Wine Industry: A striking contrast emerged between Wine Paris and the simultaneously held Artificial Intelligence Action Summit, also in Paris. I felt a little embarrassed talking to them about whether or not sulfur is a good thing in wine when their conference topic was how to craft AI so that civilization is not destroyed. Despite the fact that conference topic was highly technical and as important as it gets, they talked to me about advanced marketing tactics being used at the conference, explaining their complex products' transformative value propositions without getting bogged down in technical jargon.
Meanwhile at Wine Paris, exhibitors predominantly relied on the same visually appealing booths I’ve seen at every wine trade event, showcasing vineyard and winery photos, and leading all interactions with product pitching. While these events are essential for networking and discovering new wines, the overwhelming focus on product technical details overshadowed the crucial element of communicating brand value and consumer appeal with real data. The contrast was in some of the panel discussions and seminars which did a great job of addressing modern communication tactics and integrating digital tools in marketing, but these represented 10% of the “Academy” sessions, compared to 20% with viticulture topics (important, but probably better for a viticulture conference) and 70% comparative tastings or literal product pitches.
There were many exhibitors I met who successfully established relationships by articulating their winery's raison d'être – the fundamental reason for their brand’s existence and the unique value it brings. Perhaps the best collective effort I observed was the consortium representing the grower producers in Champagne (Champagne des Vignerons). They provided a central communication point where a buyer could seek their help in narrowing the suppliers down to data-driven categories, such as those whose production focuses on Brut Nature and Extra Brut wines that would fit well into the American market demand for low sugar products. Moving forward, mastering marketing strategies that effectively communicate a product’s essence and its data-supported relevance in the target market is paramount for success. I am excited to utilize ProWein’s new Fair Match tool to see if it advances things in this regard. For Wine Paris to be truly transformative, the format of the event will need to reach beyond simply being the same old wine fair in a prettier city.
2. The Rising Presence of Younger Generations: Wine Paris demonstrated to me a significant influx of younger professionals—sommeliers, importers, next-generation family proprietors, and export directors. There was also a noticeable increased presence of women in leadership roles, a trend that aligns with the work of organizations such as Amanda Higgins' "Dream Big Darling," which champions women in the alcohol beverage industry. This younger and diverse cohort seemed to me to demonstrate a remarkable understanding of wine authenticity and quality, quickly identifying both excellence and shortcomings (yes, even in natural wine). They are astute and not easily swayed by superficial marketing claims. I witnessed one young professional enter the same hall as me where a gimmicky wine brand had staged models at the entrance to pass out postcards that contained cheesy, sexually suggestive branding in a trite attempt to gain attention. The young man—who I later found out was American—took one look at the flyer and promptly threw it in the trash can. 1992 called and wanted their marketing tactic back.
This observation challenges the prevalent narrative of needing to simplify or worse “dumb down” wine to attract younger or newer audiences. Instead, it highlights the need for clear, intelligent communication that resonates with their discerning palates and values. While the younger demographic in particular may not yet constitute a major force in the American premium and luxury wine market (it is true that they will need a period of wealth accumulation before they impact the premium and luxury wine markets significantly), their informed preferences and rapid information dissemination through their social circles will inevitably shape future trends.
3. A Global Rise in Wine Quality Levels the Playing Field: I’m a bit of a European wine snob simply because I was lucky enough to cut my teeth on portfolios such as Vineyard Brands, Winebow, and Vias while at The Henry Wine Group. It’s not a coincidence that I proudly represent the Dierberg family and Tyler Thomas, who apprenticed with Aubert de Villaine and has an amazing talent for utilizing minimalistic winemaking techniques to accentuate a truly unique Santa Barbara estate. There is more and more demand in the fine wine market for this sort of elegance and authenticity.
Back when I first started in the fine wine business, lots of American premium wine stood in stark contrast to premium old-world wine. It was bigger, bolder, and often posing but failing at being world class. Today, many new world estate wineries appear to be striving for and attaining greatness rooted in their local context and culture, which is the hallmark of truly world-class wine. The same is true of what I saw at the fair from South Africa, South America, and in small sub regions of Europe such as Switzerland. Nobody is touting themselves as “Burgundy in Switzerland,” or “Bordeaux in California.”
As I’ve said before, this is a great time for authentic premium wine. This level playing field—or should we call it rising tide lifting many boats—makes effective sales and marketing strategies and the implementation of new digital tools even more central to success in the competitive U.S. premium and luxury wine market. As a great mentor, Marty Wolinsky told me almost twenty years ago, “Peter, you’ll never succeed in sales by just talking about how great your product is.”